When exporting for 3D Printing,
1) Remove all unwanted solid forms
2) Scale down to the dimensions (mm) of the model.
3) Export as an STL. If there is no plugin for STL exporting, then export both as a 3DS and an OBJ.
4) Re-import the data, check that there is no unwanted loss of detail.
5) Contact us for a Quote.
The following contains details about how to design an object for efficient 3d printing.
Solid not Surface. (Crucial for all forms of 3D Printing.)
The objects must be watertight meshes exported as a STL file. Try to keep the scale in millimeters.
Watertight means entirely closed, with no extra loose surfaces. We highly recommend you re-import the file back into your software to check it has exported correctly. You can put several objects in a single STL file, but ensure they are each individually watertight and do not overlap.
If your software cannot export to STL, please isolate the object to be 3d printed, make sure it is scaled (in mm) to the size you desire, and send it to us as an OBJ, 3DS, Sketchup or 3DM file. There may quote an additional fee for file conversions and mesh repair.
The most common mistake we see with files is objects that are impossibly thin. Aim for all surfaces to be thicker than 1.5mm in all direction. See Machine Specifications for more information on wall thicknesses.
Please note that shapes may appear to be watertight, but have mathematically meshed poorly. It can be difficult making complex shapes into a single closed mesh.
Fortunately, there are also some effective web-based services for checking and repairing meshes, such as netfabb’s cloud:
http://cloud.netfabb.com
Always double check the modified STL to ensure there is no missing detail.
You may want to check the machine specifications and ensure that surface are thick enough (typically 1.8mm is lowest thickest).
File preparation for 3d printing can be complicated. If all this is too much, Manifester is completely capable of handing the headache of STL conversion for you using our File Conversion/Repair Service.
Support Structure: (For FDM Printing.)
Since objects are 3D printed in layers of plastic, each layer relies on the having something beneath to support it. For many objects, support structures must be created to facilitate the printing process. These are later removed and the traces are dissolved in a citric-based acid known as Limonene.
Objects can be printed from a base out at angles up to 45⁰. Anything else will need support structures. If there are significant amounts of support structure, a surcharge will apply based on the added volume of this supporting plastic. At Manifester we use dissolvable support structures (as opposed to break-off support structures) and so there will be no jagged remains on your print.
Parts vs Whole

Left: Desired object.
Mid: Object printed as one part, with support. $1500
Right: Object printed as four parts, no support. $500
Considering that a print’s cost depends on its volume and the volume of its support, for large objects it may be more cost-efficient to print the object in multiple parts. These parts can be easily assembled with general purpose glues advertised to adhere to plastics.
The difference in total volume (measured in cc -cubic centimeters) can be quite drastic in cantilevered or hollow structures.
Desired Object:
Thin plates and columns suspended to form a cantilevering stadium structure.
Object Printed as one part:
Volume: 250cc object + 500cc support structures
Cost Estimate: $1500
Object Printed as four parts:
Volume: 250cc object
Cost Estimate: $500
Saving: $1000
3D Architectural Plans
A cost-effective architectural model can be made by dividing each floor and printing them separately. This can then be either glued together or left as removable parts, allowing you to walk clients or peers through every part of the building.
Please allow for a slab of at least 2mm and exterior walls of at least 1.5 mm so that prints can be delivered safely.
For more information on thickness and tolerances, see our Machine Specifications.



